Rolf's Old-World Black Forest Cake

Description

Source: CELEBRATE WITH CHOCOLATE - MARCEL DESAULNIERS

When I decided to include a Black Forest cake in this book I turned for help to retired executive pastry chef Rolf Herion, who has been my good friend since 1970. When I first met Rolf, he was in charge of producing all the breads and desserts for the restaurants operated by the Colonial Williamsburg Foundation (including the prestigious Williamsburg Inn). Rolf was born in the town of Säckingen in the Black Forest region of Germany. During the years I worked at Colonial Williamsburg, I remember the countless letters written to Rolf complimenting him on his incomparable Black Forest cake. Rolf spent a day at Ganache Hill with Brett Bailey and me re-creating the famous cake that is a testament to the many years Rolf spent honing his craft. Rolf’s version does not stint on ingredients. Layers of kirschwasser-soaked cocoa cake are interspersed with glazed fresh cherries and an elegant chocolate buttercream. The whole is lavishly spread with whipped cream and then topped with chocolate curls. This supreme dessert glorifies any celebration. Kirschwasser is a limpid fruit brandy made from black cherries; it has its origins in the Black Forest region of Germany. Although other countries produce kirsch, the best is still made in the Black Forest. If you are unable to locate kirsch, substitute framboise, which is made from raspberries, or any other colorless fruit brandy that you find appealing. You will find an astonishing array of preserves, jams, and fruit spreads at most upscale supermarket and gourmet specialty stores. If your taste preferences doesn’t run to black currant preserves, please feel free to substitute a favorite. For me that would be red raspberry preserves. This cake may be prepared over 2 days. DAY 1: Bake the Vanilla Sugar Cookie Base. Once it’s cooled, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Also bake the Old-World Cocoa Sponge Cake layers. After the cake layers have been out of the oven for 10 minutes, invert them and then brush with kirschwasser as described in the recipe. Once they’re cooled to room temperature, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight. Glaze the cherries. Once they’re cooled, refrigerate. DAY 2: Prepare the “Just a Hint of Chocolate” Buttercream. Remove the Vanilla Sugar Cookie Base from the refrigerator. Spread the black currant preserves over the cookie. Begin assembling the cake as described in the recipe. Make the whipped cream. Finish assembling the cake. Refrigerate the cake in a large, tightly sealed plastic container for 3 to 4 hours before serving. After assembly, keep the cake in the refrigerator for 2 days before serving. To avoid permeating the cake with refrigerator odors, place it in a large, tightly sealed plastic container.

Ingredients

• 1 teaspoon unsalted butter, melted
• 2 ounces (½ stick) unsalted butter, cut into ½-ounce pieces
• 1¼ cups all-purpose flour
• ¾ teaspoon baking powder
• ⅓ cup granulated sugar
• 1 large egg
• 1 tablespoon sour cream
• 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
• ¼ cup black currant preserves
• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted
• 3 ounces unsalted butter, cut into ½-ounce pieces
• 1½ cups all-purpose flour
• ½ cup unsweetened cocoa powder
• 8 large eggs
• 1 cup granulated sugar
• ¼ cup kirschwasser
• 1½ pounds fresh tart red cherries
• ¾ cup granulated sugar
• 2 tablespoons kirschwasser
• 3½ tablespoons water
• 2 tablespoons cornstarch
• ½ pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into ½-ounce pieces
• ½ cup granulated sugar
• 4 large egg whites
• 4 ounces semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped and melted
• 2¼ cups heavy cream
• 3 tablespoons granulated sugar
• 2 ounces semisweet chocolate curls

Directions

1. MAKE THE VANILLA SUGAR COOKIE BASE: Preheat the oven to 350°F.
2. Lightly coat the inside of a 9×1½-inch nonstick cake pan with the melted butter.
3. Set aside.
4. In a sifter combine the flour and baking powder.
5. Sift onto a large piece of parchment paper (or wax paper).
6. Set aside.
7. Place the sugar and 2 ounces butter in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle.
8. Mix on low speed for 1 minute; then increase the speed to medium and beat for 2 minutes until soft.
9. Use a rubber spatula to scrape down the sides of the bowl.
10. Add the egg and beat on medium for 2 minutes until thoroughly combined.
11. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and the paddle.
12. Now beat on medium-high for 1 minute (although the mixture is not appealing in appearance, it will soon become an excellent cookie dough).
13. Operate the mixer on low while gradually adding the dry ingredients; mix until incorporated, about 1 minute.
14. Add the sour cream and vanilla extract and mix on medium until combined, about 15 seconds.
15. Remove the bowl from the mixer and use a rubber spatula to finish mixing the ingredients until thoroughly combined (now you have something that looks like cookie dough).
16. Transfer the dough to the prepared pan.
17. Wearing a pair of disposable vinyl (or latex) gloves, evenly press the dough into the bottom of the pan from the center to the edges in a uniform thickness (this is easily done as the dough is very pliable).
18. Bake on the center rack in the oven until the edges of the cookie base are lightly golden brown and have started to pull away from the sides of the pan, 12 to 13 minutes.
19. Remove the cookie base from the oven and cool in the pan at room temperature for 5 minutes.
20. Invert onto a cake circle (or cake plate) and set aside to cool at room temperature for 20 minutes.
21. Turn the cookie base over.
22. Evenly spread the black currant preserves over the entire top surface of the cookie base.
23. Refrigerate the cookie base.
24. MAKE THE OLD-WORLD COCOA SPONGE CAKE: Preheat the oven to 350°F.
25. Lightly coat the insides of three 9×1½-inch nonstick cake pans with some of the melted butter.
26. Line the bottoms of the pans with parchment paper (or wax paper), then lightly coat the paper with more melted butter.
27. Set aside.
28. In a sifter combine the flour and cocoa powder.
29. Sift onto a large piece of parchment paper (or wax paper) and set aside until needed.
30. Place 3 ounces butter in a small glass bowl in a microwave oven set at medium power for 45 seconds.
31. Remove and use a rubber spatula to stir the butter until melted, smooth, and creamy. (This microwave technique for melting yields a butter that has a sauce-like consistency and that is not warm—it must not be warm to the touch when added to the cake batter.)
32. Heat 1 inch of water in a large saucepan over medium heat.
33. When the water begins to simmer, place the eggs and sugar in a large stainless steel bowl.
34. Set the bowl into the saucepan (the bottom of the bowl should not touch the water).
35. Using a handheld whisk (you may instead use a handheld electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment), gently whisk the eggs and sugar until the mixture reaches a temperature of 110°F, about 3½ minutes.
36. Transfer the egg mixture to the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a balloon whip. (Make certain that the bowl and whip are meticulously clean and dry; otherwise, the eggs will not whisk properly.)
37. Whisk on high speed for 5 minutes until light and airy, and soft peaks have almost formed. (While being whisked, the mixture looks as though it may escape the mixing bowl; relax—it won’t.)
38. Remove the bowl from the mixer and use a rubber spatula to gently but thoroughly fold in about half the dry ingredients; once incorporated, fold in the remaining dry ingredients.
39. Now fold the 3 ounces melted butter into the batter. Immediately divide the cake batter among the prepared pans (about 1¾ cups per pan) and spread it evenly.
40. Bake on the top and center racks in the oven until a toothpick inserted in the center of each cake layer comes out clean, 13 to 14 minutes. (Rotate the pans from the top to the center halfway through the baking time.)
41. Remove the cake layers from the oven and cool in the pans for 10 minutes at room temperature.
42. Invert the layers onto cake circles (or directly onto cake plates).
43. Carefully peel the paper away from the bottoms of the layers.
44. Use a pastry brush to moisten the top and sides equally of each of the layers with some of the kirschwasser.
45. Wrap the layers with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to assemble.
46. GLAZE THE CHERRIES: Wash and dry the cherries.
47. Reserve 12 of the prettiest cherries (with stems attached) to garnish the cake.
48. Remove the stems and pits from the remaining cherries (you should end up with about 4 cups).
49. Heat the sugar, kirschwasser, and 2 tablespoons of the water in a small saucepan over medium heat.
50. When hot, stir to dissolve the sugar.
51. Bring to a boil.
52. Add the cherries to the boiling liquid and stir to coat them (at this point it does not appear as though there is enough liquid to cook the cherries, but after a few minutes the cherries will give off enough liquid to get things going).
53. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat and cook the cherries at a simmer for 3 minutes until they are slightly soft.
54. Whisk together the cornstarch and the remaining 1½ tablespoons of the water in a small bowl until the cornstarch is dissolved and the mixture is smooth.
55. Add the cornstarch mixture to the simmering cherries and stir to thicken.
56. Simmer for an additional 2 minutes.
57. You will have 2½ cups.
58. Transfer the cherries to a baking sheet with sides and refrigerate.
59. MAKE THE “JUST A HINT OF CHOCOLATE” BUTTERCREAM: Place the butter in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle.
60. Mix on low speed for 1 minute; increase the speed to medium and beat for 2 minutes to begin softening the butter.
61. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and the paddle.
62. Now beat on medium-high for 2 minutes until soft.
63. Transfer the butter to a small bowl and set aside at room temperature.
64. Heat 1 inch of water in a large saucepan over medium heat.
65. When the water begins to simmer, place the sugar and egg whites in a large stainless steel bowl.
66. Set the bowl into the saucepan (the bottom of the bowl should not touch the water).
67. Using a handheld whisk (you may instead use a handheld electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment), gently whisk the sugar and egg whites until the mixture reaches a temperature of 140°F, about 3 minutes.
68. Transfer the heated egg white mixture to the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a balloon whip. (Make certain that the bowl and whip are meticulously clean and dry; otherwise, the egg white mixture will not whisk properly.)
69. Whisk on high for 5 minutes until fluffy and no longer warm to the touch.
70. Add the semisweet chocolate and whisk on medium for 15 seconds until combined.
71. Scrape down the sides of the bowl.
72. Add the whipped butter and whisk on medium for 15 seconds to combine.
73. Remove the bowl from the mixer and use a rubber spatula to finish mixing the ingredients until thoroughly combined.
74. Transfer the buttercream to a pastry bag fitted with a medium straight tip.
75. BEGIN ASSEMBLING THE BLACK FOREST CAKE: Remove one of the cake layers from the refrigerator.
76. Remove and discard the plastic wrap.
77. Place the cake layer (kirschwasser-brushed side up) on top of the currant preserves–topped cookie base.
78. Pipe a 1-inch-wide and ¾-inch-high ring of buttercream along the outside edge of the cake layer.
79. Pipe a second ring of the buttercream, of the same proportions, about 1 inch away from the first ring.
80. Pipe a 1-inch-wide and ¾-inch-high dollop of buttercream in the center of the cake layer.
81. Refrigerate this cake and cookie layer.
82. Remove a second cake layer from the refrigerator and repeat the application of the buttercream as accomplished for the cake and cookie layer.
83. Refrigerate until the buttercream has firmed, about 30 minutes.
84. Remove all the cake layers from the refrigerator.
85. Generously fill the spaces between the buttercream on the cake and cookie base layer with the glazed cherries (this will use about 1¼ cups of the glazed cherries).
86. Place the next cake layer, with the buttercream, on top of the cake and cookie layer.
87. Fill the spaces between the buttercream with the remaining 1¼ cups glazed cherries.
88. Place the remaining cake layer (kirschwasser-brushed side up) on the top of the second buttercream- and glazed-cherry layer, and press gently into place.
89. Refrigerate the cake while preparing the whipped cream.
90. MAKE THE WHIPPED CREAM: Place the heavy cream and sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a balloon whip.
91. Whisk on medium-high speed for 2 minutes until firm peaks form.
92. You will have about 5 cups.
93. Transfer 2 cups of the whipped cream to a pastry bag fitted with a large star tip.
94. FINISH THE CAKE ASSEMBLY: Spread the remaining 3 cups whipped cream over the top and sides of the cake.
95. Pipe a circle of stars (each touching the other) along the outside edge of the top of the cake.
96. Continue to pipe out circles of stars until the top of the cake is covered.
97. Space the 12 reserved cherries evenly along the outside edge of the top of the cake.
98. Decorate the top of the cake with chocolate curls. Refrigerate for 3 to 4 hours before serving.
99. TO SERVE: Heat the blade of a serrated slicer under hot running water and wipe the blade dry before cutting each slice.
100. Keep the slices at room temperature for about 15 minutes before serving.

YIELD: SERVES 12