Rose Levy Beranbaum's Marble Empire Cake With Apple Crumble Ice Cream

Description

Source: DEATH BY Chocolate Cakes - MARCEL Desaulniers

“Marcel, someone on the phone is writing a story for the New York Times, and she wants to know if we forage for food served at The Trellis. Do you want to talk to her?” “Yes, indeed,” I replied one spring day in 1986. The delicate voice on the other end didn’t sound like it belonged to an investigative reporter. Nevertheless, I wasted no time in venting my ire over a question that seemed to imply that in Virginia, the acquisition of food was as antiquated as the buildings on Duke of Gloucester Street. Laughing at my sensitivity, the scribe—Rose Levy Beranbaum—explained that the story she was writing focused on folks who forage for scarce comestibles and sell these foods to chefs who enjoy cooking the unusual. I didn’t realize at the time that I would become friends with Rose as a result of our mutual interest in writing dessert recipes. (Rose is the author of the award-winning Cake Bible cookbook, plus others.) Our friendship has included occasionally contributing a recipe or an inspiration to each other’s books. The Marble Empire Cake, created by Rose, exemplifies her keen knowledge of the science of baking and the artistry of dessert making. Ganache Hill test kitchen chef Brett Bailey, like Rose, grew up in New York State. Brett was eager to develop an ice cream accompaniment for Rose’s dessert. He was inspired by old-fashioned fruit desserts, such as cobblers, and also by the bounty of apples in his home state, to devise the exceptional Apple Crumble Ice Cream. The ice cream recipe calls for a Granny Smith apple, but other firmly textured and tart-flavored apples can be used. Brett favors the Empire apple from the Finger Lakes region, where he grew up. The 6 ounces of butter needed for the Marble Empire Cake may be softened in a microwave oven. Place the butter in a small glass bowl in a microwave set at medium-low for 30 seconds. Remove the bowl from the microwave and stir the butter with a rubber spatula. Return the butter to the microwave for 30 more seconds on medium-low. Remove the bowl from the microwave and stir the butter until softened and smooth. Spooning warm Quintessential Chocolate Ganache over the cake and ice cream will bring this cake to the level of indulgence only tolerable to those not troubled by conscience. And if you are of that ilk, I additionally recommend a snifter of a fine Cognac to further please the palate and the soul. This dessert may be prepared over 2 days. DAY I: Prepare and freeze the Apple Crumble Ice Cream. DAY 2: Make the Marble Empire Cake. Slice and serve the cake with the ice cream.

Ingredients

• 1½ cups 100 percent pure apple juice
• 1 Granny Smith apple
• 1½ cups heavy cream
• ½ cup half-and-half cream
• ¼ cup (2 ounces) tightly packed light brown sugar
• 1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
• Small pinch ground allspice
• Small pinch ground cloves
• ¼ cup granulated sugar
• 3 large egg yolks
• 4 double graham crackers (2 ounces total) broken into approximately ½-inch pieces
• 6 ounces (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, cut into ½-ounce pieces (softened); plus 2 teaspoons (melted)
• 2 cups cake flour
• ½ teaspoon baking powder
• ½ teaspoon baking soda
• ¼ teaspoon salt
• 1 ounce semisweet baking chocolate, coarsely chopped and melted
• ½ ounce unsweetened baking chocolate, coarsely chopped and melted
• 4 large egg yolks
• 2/3 cup sour cream
• 1½ teaspoons pure vanilla extract
• 1 cup superfine sugar

Directions

1. Prepare the Apple Crumble Ice Cream: Heat 1½ cups apple juice in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat.
2. Bring to a boil; then reduce the heat to maintain a simmer for 25 minutes, until the apple juice has reduced to about ¼ cup. Remove from the heat.
3. Transfer the reduced apple juice to a small bowl.
4. Wash and dry the unpeeled Granny Smith apple.
5. Core, quarter, and then dice the apple into ¼-inch pieces.
6. Immediately place the diced apples into the warm apple juice.
7. Stir to thoroughly coat each piece of apple with the reduced juice. (Thoroughly coating the apple pieces with the juice will prevent them from discoloring.)
8. Place the bowl, uncovered, in the refrigerator to cool until needed.
9. Heat 1½ cups heavy cream, ½ cup half-and-half cream, ¼ cup light brown sugar, 1/8 teaspoon cinnamon, 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg, small pinch allspice, and a small pinch cloves in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat.
10. When hot, stir to dissolve the sugar.
11. Bring to a boil.
12. While the cream mixture is heating, place ¼ cup granulated sugar and 3 egg yolks in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle.
13. Beat on high speed for 2 minutes until thoroughly combined, then use a rubber spatula to scrape down the sides of the bowl.
14. Beat on high for an additional 2 minutes until slightly thickened and pale yellow.
15. If at this point the cream mixture has not yet started to boil, adjust the mixer speed to low and continue to mix until it does boil; otherwise, undesirable lumps may form when the boiling cream mixture is added.
16. Gradually pour the boiling cream mixture into the beaten sugar and egg yolks and mix on medium to combine, about 1 minute. (To avoid splattering the boiling cream mixture, use a pouring shield attachment, or place a towel or plastic wrap over the top of the mixer and down the sides to the bowl.)
17. Return the combined mixture to the saucepan (use a rubber spatula to facilitate transferring all of the mixture); then heat over medium heat, stirring constantly.
18. Bring to a temperature of 185°F, about 3 minutes.
19. Remove from the heat and transfer to a large stainless steel bowl.
20. Cool in an ice-water bath to a temperature of 40° to 45°F.
21. When the mixture is cold, freeze in an ice cream freezer following the manufacturer’s instructions.
22. Transfer the semifrozen ice cream to a 2-quart plastic container.
23. Add the diced apple and reduced apple juice mixture; then use a rubber spatula to fold the apples into the ice cream.
24. Add the graham cracker pieces, and fold to combine.
25. Cover the container, then place in the freezer for several hours before serving.
26. Make the Marble Empire Cake: Preheat the oven to 350°F.
27. Lightly coat the inside of a 9½ × 3¼-inch nonstick fluted tube pan using the 2 teaspoons of melted butter.
28. Set aside.
29. In a sifter combine 2 cups cake flour, ½ teaspoon baking powder, ½ teaspoon baking soda, and ¼ teaspoon salt.
30. Sift onto a large piece of parchment paper (or wax paper) and set aside until needed.
31. In a medium bowl, combine the melted 1 ounce semisweet baking chocolate and ½ ounce unsweetened baking chocolate.
32. Set aside.
33. In a small bowl, lightly combine 4 egg yolks with 1/3 cup of the sour cream and 1½ teaspoons vanilla extract.
34. Set aside.
35. Place the sifted dry ingredients and 1 cup superfine sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a paddle.
36. Mix on low speed to combine, about 30 seconds.
37. Add 6 ounces softened butter and the remaining 1/3 cup sour cream and mix on low speed for 1 minute until the ingredients are combined and resemble a moist dough.
38. Beat the mixture on medium speed for 1½ minutes until slightly fluffy.
39. Use a rubber spatula to scrape down the sides of the bowl.
40. Add the egg yolk mixture, about one-third of the mixture at a time, mixing on low for 20 seconds after each addition, and scraping down the sides of the bowl once all of the egg yolk mixture has been added.
41. Finally, beat the batter on medium for 10 seconds.
42. Remove the bowl from the mixer and use a rubber spatula to finish mixing the ingredients until thoroughly combined.
43. Transfer 1 cup of batter to the bowl of melted chocolate and use a rubber spatula to stir until uniform in color.
44. Transfer 1 cup of the remaining plain batter to the prepared pan, using a rubber spatula to spread it evenly.
45. Portion 6 individual heaping tablespoons of the chocolate batter, evenly spaced, onto the layer of plain batter in the pan.
46. Use a rubber spatula to gently, but evenly, spread the chocolate batter over the entire surface of the plain batter.
47. Transfer 1 more cup of plain batter onto the layer of chocolate batter and spread evenly.
48. Portion the remaining 6 to 7 heaping tablespoons of chocolate batter, evenly spaced, onto the layer of plain batter in the pan and spread evenly.
49. Top the layer of chocolate batter with the remaining 1 cup or so of plain batter, and spread it evenly.
50. Marbleize the cake by dipping the flat blade of a dinner knife into the batter, without touching the bottom, and then lifting the blade of the knife out of the batter in a folding motion, like the roll of a wave; repeat about 12 times, working around the entire pan.
51. Smooth the surface of the batter with a rubber spatula.
52. Bake on the center rack in the preheated oven until a toothpick inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean and the cake springs back when pressed lightly in the center, about 40 minutes.
53. Remove the cake from the oven and cool in the pan for 10 minutes at room temperature.
54. Invert the cake onto a cake circle (or onto a cake plate).
55. To Serve: Heat the blade of a serrated slicer under hot running water and wipe the blade dry before cutting each slice.
56. Serve each portion of cake while still warm or at room temperature with a #20 scoop of Apple Crumble Ice Cream.

YIELD: SERVES 10