1 5-6 lb unsmoked ham, boned and rolled
 3 ribs celery
 2 carrots
 1 leek
 2 bay leaves
 1 1/2 tsp grainy mustard
 1 3/4 oz dark brown sugar (muscovado)
 14 oz strong Earl Grey tea
 1/4 pint creme fraiche
 Trim and slice the celery, carrots and leek. Place the ham in a large pot, cover with cold water and bring to the boil. Discard the water and start again with fresh water to cover, this time adding the vegetables and bay leaves. Bring to the boil, then maintain at a gentle simmer over low heat, adding boiling water if necessary, for 1 hour and 5 minutes.
 Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 425 F/ 220 C / gas 7.
 Transfer the ham from the pot to a plate or board. Strain the stock and reserve for making soups. Remove any string around the ham and pull or cut off any rind. Slash the fat at 3/4 inch intervals in a crisscross pattern, without piercing through to the meat. Secure the opening where the bone was with two metal skewers, one going each way, so the ham doesn't unravel in the oven.
 Brush the fat with the mustard, then press the sugar on top. Place the ham fat side up in a roasting pan and pour the tea into the base. Roast for 35 minutes until the glaze is sticky and caramelized. Baste halfway through, adding a little more tea if you think the liquid is reducing too quickly; there should be a pool of rich golden juices at the end. Transfer the ham to a serving plate cover with foil and leave to rest 20 minutes.
 Add the creme fraiche to the roasting juices and simmer until rich and amalgamated. Remove the skewers carve the ham and serve with the sauce.
 For a different sized ham calculate the cooking time at 40 minutes per 2 1/4 lbs., subtracting 35 minutes for glazing in the oven. So a 6 1/2 lb ham, for example, will need 1 hour 25 minutes of boiling.

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